So the day has come! I set off on my first long walk on the island. I’ve been waiting for this opportunity.
My goal was to visit the red Wat Sila Ngu (also known as Wat Ratchathammaram) (Stone Snake Temple in English). After my own writing, I also included an “official description” in the post.
I’ve organized the pictures for this post into mini galleries. However, in order to show you where my journey took me, I’ll highlight four pictures here.
Az első képen Koh Samui területei láthatóak. Én Bohputban élek a sziget északi részén és dél, dél-kelet felé kellett gyalogolnom a cél eléréséhez. Keresztül kellett gyalogolnom Chawengen, hogy Lamiban találjam magamat.
Ennek helynek az elérésére a Google Maps a második képen látható két gyalogos útvonalat adta meg nekem. A kékkel pöttyözött úton indultam el, erre a terv a Google szerint 3 óra 55 perc és a 16,8 km-es távolság. Az alternatív útvonal ezzel szemben 4 óra 49 perc és 18,7 km volt. Úgy terveztem, hogy a rövidebb úton megyek el oda, majd a hosszabb úton érkezem haza.
A harmadik és negyedik képek pedig a karórám által rögzített ténylegesen megtett kirándulás útvonalát mutatják. A képeken nem láthatóak az eredmények, de a nap végére 33,51 km-el, 6:59 perc sétával és mindössze 285 méter szintkülönbség megtételével lettem gazdagabb. Legalább nem kellett hegyet másznom!
Bohput
The first picture shows the areas of Koh Samui. I live in Bo Phut in the north of the island and had to walk south-southeast to reach my destination. I had to walk through Chaweng to find myself in Lami.
To reach this place, Google Maps gave me two walking routes, shown in the second picture. I started on the blue dotted route, which Google estimated would take 3 hours and 55 minutes and cover a distance of 16.8 km. The alternative route, on the other hand, was 4 hours and 49 minutes and 18.7 km. I planned to take the shorter route to get there and then the longer route home.
The third and fourth pictures show the actual route I took, as recorded by my watch. The results are not visible in the pictures, but by the end of the day I had walked 33.51 km, walked 6:59 minutes and gained only 285 meters in elevation. At least I didn’t have to climb a mountain!
On my way, I took my first break between the usual 7-11 and the once-used laundromat, after a tough 1,000 meters. I started out hungry, I didn’t drink coffee, so I bought these at the beginning. The avocado sandwich was very delicious, it was practically the first slice of bread I had eaten in 3 weeks. The coffee was iced, that’s how I like it.
Since I walked the entire way through a populated area, I didn’t expect many natural wonders. I only encountered a single snake on the sidewalk. And I walked in terrible noise, so I listened to a book almost the entire way. So by the end of the day, my reading experience memory was enriched by nearly 350 pages.
I saw a lot of unsightly places. By this I mean that there is quite a lot of dirt along the roads. At such times, I am confronted with the fact that despite all the serenity, Thai people also litter. The custom here is that the garbage truck goes around every night and takes the garbage away. We just put the black bags in the trash can, or next to it if it doesn’t fit. On this day, I saw a lot of black bags that hadn’t been taken away yet.
The other interesting thing is how people use the sidewalk. I think it’s natural for cars to stop on the sidewalk so that they can only be avoided on the road. But there are also motorcycles, which I’ve already written about, and I have an assumption that they grow in the grass, that’s all. Well, a motorcycle stopping in the middle of the sidewalk is also a natural thing. Or across the sidewalk. So, for a good part of my trip, I participated in a garbage bag and motorcycle/car dodging race. Seriously, if I were a little more dizzy, I’d throw up my guts, I avoided so many things that day.
I also mentioned that getting to the other side of the road is again in the impossible category. Since I had to pass quite a few intersections along the way, I had my fair share of waiting while walking. Drivers are not at all considerate. Westerners also drive stupidly. Thai people leave the least amount of distance they can when passing me. A Westerner will easily pass you by 30 centimeters. I am not a scared child, but I had to remind myself all day to assess my situation twice as carefully as I would in Europe before stepping on any roadway. And then there are steep places there too…
Of course I saw beautiful buildings, more modern than traditional. I learned that there is an elephant sanctuary not far from it. I decided to check that out next time.
The rain was a bit of a nuisance, but apart from that and the traffic, I reached Chaweng without any excitement.
Chaweng
This part of the settlement is no different from Bohput in that it is the same. I only found out that I had arrived here from the sign.
The weather was still cloudy when I was here, but having reached this far I could already experience what it means to walk in the tropics. Obviously the physical work had something to do with it, but I think the 70-80% relative humidity also helped that all my clothes were floating in water. By the way, the relative humidity in Hungary for the same period is 60-68%. By the end of the day, my pants were stained white with salt coming out of my body everywhere. I drank quite a lot during the day, but despite this – as is usual at this time – I didn’t have to go to the bathroom very often. I think I managed to illustrate quite thoroughly that I was sweating like a horse all day.
I made a 50-meter detour before Lamai, because the sea was right next to my road. I found a chair on the sandy beach, so I took a little rest here, and before continuing, I meditated a little.
I approached Lamai. There is an unpleasant section between Chaweng and Lamai. I had to walk a lot on the side of a four-lane car road. There are no sidewalks on the road for kilometers. It was not worth walking on a main road, but I was a little excited not to end up back in any of the hospitals I saw on my trip today. Because I quietly note that I saw three hospitals on this 17-km stretch of road.
Shops in such a settlement are about every 300 meters, so I could buy water anywhere. Of course, I took some with me, which I consumed at the temple, when it was already quite hot.
Lamai
This part of the town is somehow more crowded than where I live. And I saw a lot more tourists. I avoided it. Looking at the pictures, I can’t really highlight anything special about this section.
Maybe just that I didn’t feel the need yet, but here I already put on my hat because I remembered that I didn’t want to get sunstroke. So, I looked for shady spots on the sidewalk so I could walk there, and after a while I felt my shoes getting warm.
I sat down at a small buffet for a watermelon smoothie, and it was really nice that they turned on the fan for me immediately when I sat down. My T-shirt almost (!) dried.
Wat Sila Ngu
Then suddenly I was at the temple. I recommend reading the part about the temple at the end of the post, which I also mentioned at the beginning of my article. My own experiences were as follows.
It was a joy to catch a glimpse of the temple. That is, it was good to get there. I knew that I wanted to go inside the building, but only on the way did I realize that my knees were not covered by my pants, and covering this part of the body is a requirement when visiting Buddhist temples. Maybe it was good that I ran through airports twice this year in these pants without a belt, because at least that way I knew that if I loosened the belt, the pants would slide down just enough to cover the unwanted part of my body. My shoulders were covered, and you have to take off your shoes if you want to go inside, but it’s easier to take something you have than to replace something you don’t have.
The temple was very beautiful, as were its surroundings. Although, if I think about it, in the surroundings, only the statues and other buildings were beautiful, the surroundings themselves presented a clean and simple picture.
The church itself carried something special grandeur. I got there an hour before it closed, so I had time to admire the statues. I also had time to do a second meditation inside. This was not the first time I meditated in a church, I had already had the opportunity to do so in Milan, as I wrote about in my “Cinque Terre travel diary”.
While walking around the temple, I met a monk who I greeted with due respect, but he did not greet me back. I asked ChatGPT what could be the reason for this non-greeting and I got a reassuring answer. Overall, it is likely that he did not greet me back not out of disrespect, but because according to local religious and cultural customs, monks have a different attitude towards greetings than what we are used to in Europe.
This is a very interesting experience that the monk did not greet me back and there could be several possible explanations:
- Different cultural customs
- In Thailand, monks (especially in the Theravada Buddhist tradition) often do not greet laypeople, especially non-female visitors. This is not disrespectful, but rather a way of following the rules of the order (vinaya).
- The manner of greeting is also different: locals use the wai gesture (folded hands, slight bow), which monks generally do not return. They may respond with a small nod, a smile, or complete silence.
- Monastic rules
- Reservation is important for Buddhist monks, and they often refrain from unnecessary talk. The monk may have taken a vow of silence, or he may simply not be in the mood for conversation.
- Personal reason
- He may have been in meditation, thought, or the middle of a task and did not respond. This is not a personal rejection, but rather part of the moment.
It’s great to know this because it helps me understand the culture here.
I sat on the beach for a while, pondered the unknown cultural meaning of the sculptures, and then – since closing time was approaching – I headed home.
The way back
As I mentioned, I planned to take the other route home. I thought so until the bend that separated the two roads. But in the last few minutes I reconsidered and still stayed on the same route I came. It was obvious that I would be doing most of the way back in the dark. The alternative route was outside of the populated area, but on a highway. So I really didn’t want to risk being hit by someone in the middle of the island in my unlit outfit.
I stopped for dinner not far from the temple. I had a pad thai, and since I felt a little short now, I asked for another serving of fried bananas. I drank a Fanta, too, just for curiosity’s sake. It really tastes very different from Europe!
This restaurant was a very interesting place. It was actually part of the street, with the kitchen right in front of me, the chairs and the sidewalk. When I sat down, one of the ladies suggested that I sit at another table. I immediately understood that he was saying this because there was a fan above the table he suggested – aimed at the chair – which he turned on immediately when I sat down. Only women worked in this restaurant, of all ages. They were sitting at a table and chatting, but as soon as I told them what I wanted, they all(!) stood up and started doing something. In this way, I felt funny and uncomfortable when, after eating the pad thai, I asked for the banana and everyone jumped up again, as if they were members of an anthill. This is where I first encountered the linguistic inaccessibility. One of the sweetly smiling girls didn’t even know the word Fanta. Or was it me who pronounced it incomprehensibly?
On my way back, I noticed that I had passed by the Lamai Night Market. It was already open on the way back, so of course I checked it out. You could buy a lot of food and useful things. But this place doesn’t beat the Fisherman’s Village Night Market near me, because you couldn’t even buy a fried grasshopper here.
I got a lot of invitations on the way. This is the part of the town where there are a lot of night clubs. The girls sit here, drink something, and if I walk towards them, they wave and invite me to join them. I’ve gotten used to being invited to a dozen massage parlors a day if I walk past them. In such cases, I always say hello with a wai and a thank you to indicate that I’m not going in. At the bars here, I just smiled and didn’t go in.
As planned, I arrived home before 10 p.m. Tired, with a good sense of exhaustion. I loved this day too.
Official description
source: Wat Sila Ngu – Wat Ratchathammaram
Wat Sila Ngu (also known as Wat Ratchathammaram) is one of Koh Samui’s cultural attractions, well worth adding to your itinerary and one of the most popular temples for the local Thai Buddhist population.
The name “Stone Snake Temple”, the English translation of “Wat Sila Ngu”, holds deep cultural and spiritual significance, rooted in the mythology and symbolism revered across Southeast Asia.
The word “Sila” translates to “stone” in English, while “Ngu” means “snake.” So, the name Wat Sila Ngu literally translates to the “Stone Snake Temple”. The snake, particularly the Naga serpent, is a potent symbol in many Asian cultures, including Thai. Wat Sila Ngu, or Stone Snake Temple, is a name that beautifully combines physical description with spiritual symbolism, enriching the temple’s cultural significance. It paints a vivid picture of the temple’s role as a spiritual haven and offers insights into the rich tapestry of Thai Buddhist traditions and beliefs.
In Thai and Buddhist mythology, the Naga is often depicted as a great snake or dragon, sometimes with multiple heads. It’s viewed as a protector and a symbol of great power and wisdom. Nagas are believed to be the inhabitants of a mythical underworld, protectors of treasures, and guardians of the Buddha and his teachings.
In the context of Wat Sila Ngu, the name could reference the physical attributes of the temple or symbolize the spiritual values it embodies. The temple’s exterior, replete with red clay tiles, is reminiscent of the scaly skin of a serpent, and the undulating pathways might mirror a snake’s sinuous movement. On a symbolic level, the name might reflect the temple’s role as a protector of spiritual wisdom and treasure, akin to the revered Naga serpent.
On approach to the temple, you’ll be greeted by the sight of the ornate edifice, majestically adorned with red clay tiles that glisten in the sunlight, offering a mesmerizing view. The distinctive red exterior is thought to symbolize the mythical fire-breathing Naga, a serpent deity respected across several Southeast Asian cultures. Overlooking the azure sea, this dazzling red temple provides a unique contrast to the lush, tropical greenery that surrounds it.
As you step inside, you’ll immediately notice the captivating tranquillity that prevails, allowing visitors to soak in the spiritual atmosphere. At the heart of the temple, you’ll find a large golden statue of the Buddha in the Subduing Mara posture, representing the moment of his enlightenment. Buddha’s teachings, philosophy, and life events are artfully displayed in elaborate carvings and murals throughout the temple.
The intricate details of these carvings reveal stories from the Jataka tales (stories about the previous lives of the Buddha), Buddhist doctrines, and the lives of revered monks. You’ll find these artworks rich in symbolism, from the lotus flowers symbolizing purity to the Bodhi tree signifying enlightenment. It’s a beautiful opportunity to gain a deeper understanding of Buddhism’s rich tapestry.
Wat Sila Ngu’s history adds another layer to its allure. Established in the early 20th century, the temple has been serving as a spiritual sanctuary for locals and a fascinating destination for international tourists for over a century. Locals often visit this temple to pray and make merit, especially on Buddhist holidays.
Perhaps one of the most unique aspects of this temple is the hidden underground chamber, which houses a meditating Buddha and is reserved for meditation and religious ceremonies. This chamber is a place of profound tranquility, perfect for personal reflection.
Adjacent to the temple is a monk’s dwelling (Kuti) where monks reside and practice their daily rituals. Observing their disciplined lifestyle can provide a rare glimpse into the daily life of Buddhist monks. If you’re keen, you may also have the chance to engage in a ‘Tak Bat’ ceremony early in the morning, where locals offer food to the monks – an integral part of Thai Buddhist culture.
As you explore the temple grounds, you’ll also discover a number of smaller shrines dedicated to other deities and revered monks, each holding their own significance. Among these, you’ll find a statue of Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy, a prominent figure in East Asian Buddhism. Her shrine is often visited by those seeking compassion and kindness.
To get the most out of your visit, consider hiring a local guide who can explain the history and significance of the temple, the murals, and the symbolism contained within. However, it’s also enjoyable to just wander at your own pace, taking in the peaceful atmosphere.
Remember, Wat Sila Ngu is an active place of worship. Therefore, it’s crucial to dress appropriately: shoulders and knees should be covered, and shoes must be removed before entering sacred areas. Be respectful, keep your voice down, and don’t point your feet towards Buddha statues or monks.