The not very tactically planned route, a deep cave, and weak motorbikes made our last day exciting.
The motorbike tour ended today.
I’m going to sleep in Ninh-Binh again today.
But I still have an exciting night experience waiting for me.
One-third
Of the nearly 650-kilometer two-wheeled tour, 200 km remained for the last day.
We made a significant detour to a national park. Which – I’m not saying that this is our style – we ended up not seeing. Or maybe we just passed by it, but I’m not really sure. Maybe we were looking for an invisible national park?
However, we had three other experiences. It seems that life immediately compensated us.
Kho Mường village
We had to turn off the main road into a deep valley. Here I have to underline the word deep three times. This depth brought the third experience for today.
The first was a Hmong village deep in the beautiful valley. As we stopped the vehicles, I was immediately attacked by a local man. He explained something with a huge grin while squeezing my hand. I’m not even sure he spoke Vietnamese, so it didn’t bother him a bit that I didn’t understand a word. I don’t think he was disturbed by my answering his imaginary questions in English. We eventually learned each other’s names and ages.
He wasn’t the only one who welcomed us in the village with love. As we walked among the old houses, several people smiled at us and said hello. It felt good to be in this smiling village. The most beautiful experience for me here was when I saw a group of small children bathing carefree in the river running through the middle of the village.
Such a living village always has a lot of little sights to see. A young girl was cooking lunch next to the house on a small fire, in a small pot. The delicious smell of the food mixed with the pleasant smoke of the wood. I missed several hens, who were hiding their little chicks from me a little nervously. The various tools and everyday objects lying everywhere attracted my attention. Behind each object there is a profession and a story.
Bat Cave – Hang Dơi Kho Mường
The official attraction of the village is the bat cave.
Fortunately, we were not prepared for what we were going to see. That way, our jaws dropped. Almost to the bottom of the cave.
We climbed a long path to a huge cave. The cave had huge stalactites and rocks, covered with living, green vegetation. It was as if someone had thrown a mountain into the inside of a cave.
The cave was open at the top, so the sunlight was shining in and out. The light really showed off the interesting colors that nature had created on the walls and ceiling of the cave. All kinds of blue, green and gray colors covered what the green plants didn’t cover. I think I liked the colors the most in this cave.
After a while, I was left alone in the huge room. I walked all the way down to the bottom and listened to the sounds of the bats. The sound of water dripping from the ceiling here and there made it harmonious. The cave is very easy to navigate, like an imagined lunar landscape. You just have to go around the rocks or step on them and every corner of the cave is accessible.
I didn’t take the opportunity to explore every square meter. It would have taken several hours.
When I was going out, four young Vietnamese guys came down the stairs. We greeted each other. The last girl stopped in front of me. She only said this:
I want to wish you a very happy stay in Vietnam.
So in retrospect, I’m not sure that the colors were the greatest experience for me in this cave.
Uphill
I mentioned that the valley was deep.
We paid the price for this depth on the way up.
My 125cc motorbike got tired after the first three metres of the road leaving the village. It didn’t have enough power to go up the steep road. I managed to get through the first 20-30 metres by getting off the motorbike – before it rolled back into the village with me – and walking alongside it, pushing it with the throttle fully open.
From there I knew why my Belarusian friend had told me not to stop once I got going. At a speed of about 5 km/h, I managed to make the several hundred metres of uphill journey to the entrance to the village with great difficulty.
My friend rides a 50cc motorbike. That’s why I had to wait exactly 10 minutes for him to catch up with me. He had a minor heart attack before he pushed his motorbike up. He also travels with two large backpacks. I didn’t envy him. Neither him nor the motorbike.
We took a strategic break. We waited for his 200-degree engine to cool down. Then we set off on the road that rises from the entrance to the village to the main road. I had the routine here and didn’t even think about slowing down, so I made it up with relatively minor risks to my life. I had to wait again – this time 16 minutes – for him to make it up.
We declared the mission, which had become almost impossible, a success.
And we agreed that, despite all the difficulties, it was worth going down to the valley.
A real challenge
Driving 200 km in Vietnam is a tough nut to crack.
Especially if there is traffic on the road. It was today.
I had to think a lot about Buddha and all kinds of Zen gardens today to stay calm. I think the Vietnamese driving style tests even hardened steel.
It was hot. The engine slaps your ass like meatballs. The chaos of the traffic adds to the spice.
Ninh-Binh
We were tired when we arrived in Ninh-Binh after a 12-hour journey.
No one took my backpack from the common area that I had left here for 10 days. I was glad about that. I tried my luck, but it didn’t cut it.
Although I’ve been wondering for days if my big backpack wasn’t missing for 10 days, then does it have any meaning at all?
The other surprise came at the motorbike rental place. They didn’t know who had taken their motorbike. After all, I didn’t call them, so today I was curious how they would welcome me.
I arrived at the bar where we had successfully arranged the rental deal 11 days ago. I said that I had returned the motorbike. “Do you have any deposit papers with us?” That was all the question. Jesus! It seems to me that the administrative system here is not up to par. I asked the guy if he would look at the motor. Thank you very much, he is not interested in it. They are very grateful that I rented it.
We said goodbye with this thought.
I think I will come to rent it from them next time.
The few staff members who were still there that evening were very happy for me. And I know that the others at breakfast tomorrow will be happy too.
Towards the end of the trip, I already had a plan for the evening. Shower and sleep.
I only met the guy running the bar after dinner around 10:30 PM. After we were happy enough to meet again, he asked if I would come watch the World Cup final.
You know what?
Yes.
In 10 minutes it will be two in the morning.
The World Cup final is here now.
It is just the right way to end this tiring but very beautiful day.
Postscript?
I love how life writes stories. It writes better than me.
I bought myself a can of beer and started watching the game. I didn’t even know who was playing in the World Cup final. The two teams were Spain and Argentina. I was rooting for the Spanish.
I spent the first half to myself on the left side of the large dining room. On the right side, a large group of Vietnamese people were having dinner and rooting for the game.
After halftime, a man came up to me and gave me a can of beer. There hadn’t been a goal in the game yet, but I was already leading 2-0.
Then 10 minutes later, another man invited me to join them for a meal and a drink. I accepted the invitation.
In such a group, here in Asia, it’s pointless to say no. After the third beer, I said, “Thank you, that’s enough.” Ok, ok, the man said, and he opened the next can for me.
Of course I could say a definite no, but I can’t think of it. I’m going with the flow. In this case, I’m drinking with my fellow fans. If I remember correctly, we had seven cans of beer by the end of the evening.
They were also expecting a victory for the Spanish. We toasted after every unfavourable move. And after every good move. We talked a little, but mostly we were happy together.
This unexpected invitation was good, after a while I wasn’t silent either. I did the things that men watching the match usually do after a missed or well-played situation. We were very happy together for the only goal. I loved cheering for this team together.
Spain became the world champion.
1-0.
However, for a while now I haven’t counted the goals I scored and conceded in the friendly match I played with my life.
Buy me a coffee?
If you enjoyed this story, you can buy me a coffee. You don’t have to – but it means a lot and I always turn it into a new adventure.
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